Dubai 's Authenticity still lives on

A highly contested question during the trip revolved around the question of Dubai’s authenticity. There is no doubt that the industrial and consumerist breeze has hit the once unknown city in the south-east Arabian Peninsula, but is it really all that bad? and what does authenticity mean anyway?
A look back at our history shows a similar, albeit slower, change in the structure of our economic landscape. I am referring to our industrial phases or often referred to as revolutions. They are termed revolutions for a reason and it is because the change we underwent during these eras are not just one dimensional, but are multi faceted. Undoubtedly, the revolution manifested change in the underlying fabrics of our society and culture. We were now exposed to a different environment and for the most of us, day to day activities changed and adapted to this new system. For example, our livelihoods now depended on waged work, rather than farming and relying on ones crops. However, we are not drastically different people as a result of it. To this day, we share values common to those of our predecessors. If we use the argument of authenticity in this context, we are perplexed by this referral as we do not see modernization as a tool that rids us of our heritage. Rather, we view change and “open-mindedness” as central to our societies’ progression and we welcome it. We still manage to find traces of “authentic” Canadian practices (Sugaring off anyone?), but are keen on keeping up with the latest of technologies.
Maybe what we should be asking is, is authenticity valuable in all contexts? Also, is Dubai really all that insincere?
Though we were not exposed to many Emirati people, my experience living in Saudi (and having attended a Saudi school in particular) has shown me how one is able to retain values of the pre-modernized culture all the while living in a new, more technologically and industrially advanced society. Raising the standard of living, and improving mortality rates and access to education should not be viewed as a compromise to ones’ culture or tradition. Marriages and other festivies are more or else done in the same way, as does the food they eat. Clothing attire and behaviour in public is to this day evidently displayed in both Saudi Arabia and the UAE. I will admit that other facets of the culture have changed, but it is not all that bad (as had happened during the post- industrial era), and we should embrace it.

Development in the UAE

In North America, we tend to have an underlying mentality that democracy is best governing system and that although other countries are also industrialized; everyone wants to be North American in order to gain what we have. I have to say that this ethnocentric impression needs to be reconsidered. I form this opinion after meeting with a number of business people in the UAE, particularly with Mubadala, a development organization. I am really fascinated with the organization because it is a private organization that is executing public initiatives. It is an interesting solution for bureaucratic issues that we face in many industrialized countries that inhibits quick development - especially considering how fast the UAE's governments' decisions are being realized. The evidence of this development is obvious in the fact that the majority of the organizations we visited are in a new building of less than 2 years and there are thousands of cranes operating every day. I have never seen growth like this before - and I was living in Alberta during the recent oil boom.

Mubadala is private in that it is managed as any other organization that effectively manages its cash flows and does proper financial analysis for each project, diversifying industries and expanding operations. What makes Mubadala an interesting case is that it is mandated by the government to execute their development plans - for the economic and social well-being of the region. The UAE is governed by autocratic rulers who make all the major decisions of the country, so they have a strong influence in the strategic direction of this company. They also act as a venture capitalist, investing in various projects that Mubadala suggests are worth pursuing, that also support the strategy of the UAE. The oil money Mubadala does not appear to fuel an artificial stimulation of the economy (which we did see with other sectors such as in the Media City of Abu Dhabi), but just provides available capital. Additionally, because of this close relationship between Mubadala and the government, the company makes decisions based on social and economic parameters, perhaps encouraging more long term and sustainable decisions. For example, a major strategy of the government is to build the capabilities of Emiratees through the partnership with multi-national organizations. Thus the decisions made by Mubadala in their partnerships will encourage this knowledge transfer to locals, fulfilling a social purpose while stimulating economic activity. This has the potential to lead to sustainable growth with lesser and lesser reliance on foreign knowledge and investments.

This system is not without flaws by any means, but I think that it is interesting to see how effective it seems to be. Especially when comparing development to Abu Dhabi's neighbour, Dubai. Dubai has executed its development in a much more capitalistic fashion. This has facilitated its growth to some extent, but the city and industrial planning seems to less strategically aligned and purposeful as the development we observed in Abu Dhabi. Their development was delegated to various companies with less direction as to what to develop and how - there is not just one development organization like Mubadala. Thus there are several 'city centers' and suburbs developed that have poorly planned connecting streets making transportation a challenging issue. This comparison of development definitely favours Abu Dhabi's approach for long term effectiveness.

I have a number of criticisms of this system, involving many more complex issues than I have covered in this reflection. I will just share a few brief thoughts: Firstly, this rapid, autocratically directed growth is likely effective as a result of its focus on the well being of a city, not addressing the needs of the countryside of the small region. This is a considerably different situation than what is found in Canada or other larger countries. Secondly, the social development I spoke about is directed towards the Emiratee locals who make up about 10-15% of the country's population, who already have access to a number of advantages than the rest of the population. The social conditions of the remaining 85% of the population of the country seem to be largely unaddressed. Lastly, although Abu Dhabi is responsibly using their oil money to diversify their economy for long term success, I have doubts as to the economic viability of some of those investments (such as Masdar or the Media City), as they are attempting to create demand or industry from scratch, with the attitude that "if we build it, they will come." But will "they" actually come? Only time will tell. As for now, no one really knows, it is all speculation.

"C'mon Ride the Train"

Being interested in modern architecture and design for quite some time, Dubai is a place that truly was a feast for my eyes. Having visited many of the most influential contemporary design cities (Paris, various places in Italy, New York, etc.), none really come to par with or anywhere remotely close to Dubai. In fact, it would seem that for any engineer, designer, or architect, coming to the city for employment represents an unparalleled chance at full creative freedom, with limited or without any restraints whatsoever on capital. A true opportunity of a lifetime!

While the examples to cite for this are endless, one thing in particular still sticks in my head. On my last day in Dubai, I decided to venture off on my own to other less "touristy" areas of the city. This being said, I hopped on a taxi from our hotel en route to the nearest metro (Mall of the Emirates). Now, I know that metro systems are not exactly the things that are the most cosmopolitan...but, this time, I urge all of you to reconsider.

Have a look for yourselves - The first picture is a sample of what every metro station looks like from the outside (this one is of the Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall Station), while the other two are taken from the inside of Khalid Bin Al-Whaleed station (the station adjacent to the Burjuman shopping center).

Having second thoughts yet? The cleanliness, superb. The staff, respectful and well-informed. The design, futuristic. The lighting, exquisite. A very high-end look, for such a basic staple. Truly Amazing!

I know that I might not be the most frequent user of metro systems or public transport as a whole but, I'm sure if Montreal's metros looked anything close to this, I, as well as others, might be more inclined to make use of it. The Dubai Metro System is fully automated, meaning that there are no drivers but there is a central location which monitors the flow of the carts. The metros ride above ground unlike the ones in Montreal. It is also said that once the entire system is completed, it will have taken over the world record set by the Vancouver Sky train as the longest automated metro system in the world. The only negative comment I can make about the system is that I found it to be quite slow. However, I'm not sure whether this is because many of the stations were still under construction causing the trains to have to slow down. I guess I will have to retest in June 2010 when it will be fully completed. Anybody down for a summer trip? I know I am!

One last random thought for now. For some reason, the only song that keeps on replaying in my head, over and over again, is one that is taking me back to my youth (I know I'm still young, but you understand), and the days in which Chicago Bulls Basketball games and anything Michael Jordan were all the rage. Come on people, sing the Quad City DJs song with me, I know you know it..."C'mon ride the train...woo woo...and ride it!"...I can't hear you...Sing louder!