Thursday, March 4, 2010
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Is the search for authenticity problematic?

I would like to argue that claiming that the UAE lacks authenticity comes down to saying that the Emirates haven’t fulfilled our touristic Western desires. We yearn for a foreign place that remains “traditional”, or at least conform to the representation that we have of it. Arguably, this representation stems from the popular imagery of the colonial world (think: Lawrence of Arabia), and the “high art” representations of the Middle East and of Asia.
This relates to the theory of orientalism of Edward Saïd, one of the most renowned postcolonial philosopher and thinker. According to him, the Western world constructed during and after colonization a fantasy-like representation of the Middle East and Asia as places of exoticism, romanticism and foreignness. I believe that these representations still endure. In a way, are we not disappointed by the modern aspect of the Abu Dhabi mosque because it doesn’t meet our standards for exoticism? Do we not have an image of the Middle East, with camels and souks in which the traveler can wander for hours, that we look forward to consolidating with the reality? Arguably, we, as white Europeans and North Americans, would like the regions we visit as tourists to be available for exploration, to offer a change of scenery and a certain wildness.

Response to Tala's and Karah's posts on authenticity

Dubai kind of makes me think of the early days of New York City. I feel like it is just reborn, Dubai now has nothing to do with what it was at the creation of the United Arab Emirates. It's building its own identity right now.
It seems that people wondering about Dubai's authenticity are looking for the wrong things in the wrong places. Yes there still exists the ancient Emirati culture, but that isn't the culture, the identity of Dubai as a whole. As mentioned before they only represent 8% of the population of city. If you are looking for the authentic Arab culture, you have to go into an Emirate's house, live their lifestyle -- still very different from any other. The rest of the population are all expats from all over the world each still living like they used to back home. While the Emirati (still wearing the traditional clothes) will go camping in the desert over the weekend to spend quality time with the family (still strongly valued in their culture), the European will go sailing around The World (inside joke: The World Islands recently built off the Dubai coast). I cannot comment about South Asian traditions as I do not know much about them, but each population brings along its culture.
The identity of Dubai as a whole is of a growing city made up of the amalgamation of many cultures. You cannot ask for the authenticity of a newborn city, only of its subparts.
I feel like Dubai is not an Arab city, it's a melting pot.
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Dubai 's Authenticity still lives on
A look back at our history shows a similar, albeit slower, change in the structure of our economic landscape. I am referring to our industrial phases or often referred to as revolutions. They are termed revolutions for a reason and it is because the change we underwent during these eras are not just one dimensional, but are multi faceted. Undoubtedly, the revolution manifested change in the underlying fabrics of our society and culture. We were now exposed to a different environment and for the most of us, day to day activities changed and adapted to this new system. For example, our livelihoods now depended on waged work, rather than farming and relying on ones crops. However, we are not drastically different people as a result of it. To this day, we share values common to those of our predecessors. If we use the argument of authenticity in this context, we are perplexed by this referral as we do not see modernization as a tool that rids us of our heritage. Rather, we view change and “open-mindedness” as central to our societies’ progression and we welcome it. We still manage to find traces of “authentic” Canadian practices (Sugaring off anyone?), but are keen on keeping up with the latest of technologies.
Maybe what we should be asking is, is authenticity valuable in all contexts? Also, is Dubai really all that insincere?
Though we were not exposed to many Emirati people, my experience living in Saudi (and having attended a Saudi school in particular) has shown me how one is able to retain values of the pre-modernized culture all the while living in a new, more technologically and industrially advanced society. Raising the standard of living, and improving mortality rates and access to education should not be viewed as a compromise to ones’ culture or tradition. Marriages and other festivies are more or else done in the same way, as does the food they eat. Clothing attire and behaviour in public is to this day evidently displayed in both Saudi Arabia and the UAE. I will admit that other facets of the culture have changed, but it is not all that bad (as had happened during the post- industrial era), and we should embrace it.
Development in the UAE
This system is not without flaws by any means, but I think that it is interesting to see how effective it seems to be. Especially when comparing development to Abu Dhabi's neighbour, Dubai. Dubai has executed its development in a much more capitalistic fashion. This has facilitated its growth to some extent, but the city and industrial planning seems to less strategically aligned and purposeful as the development we observed in Abu Dhabi. Their development was delegated to various companies with less direction as to what to develop and how - there is not just one development organization like Mubadala. Thus there are several 'city centers' and suburbs developed that have poorly planned connecting streets making transportation a challenging issue. This comparison of development definitely favours Abu Dhabi's approach for long term effectiveness.
I have a number of criticisms of this system, involving many more complex issues than I have covered in this reflection. I will just share a few brief thoughts: Firstly, this rapid, autocratically directed growth is likely effective as a result of its focus on the well being of a city, not addressing the needs of the countryside of the small region. This is a considerably different situation than what is found in Canada or other larger countries. Secondly, the social development I spoke about is directed towards the Emiratee locals who make up about 10-15% of the country's population, who already have access to a number of advantages than the rest of the population. The social conditions of the remaining 85% of the population of the country seem to be largely unaddressed. Lastly, although Abu Dhabi is responsibly using their oil money to diversify their economy for long term success, I have doubts as to the economic viability of some of those investments (such as Masdar or the Media City), as they are attempting to create demand or industry from scratch, with the attitude that "if we build it, they will come." But will "they" actually come? Only time will tell. As for now, no one really knows, it is all speculation.
"C'mon Ride the Train"
Having second thoughts yet? The cleanliness, superb. The staff, respectful and well-informed. The design, futuristic. The lighting, exquisite. A very high-end look, for such a basic staple. Truly Amazing!
One last random thought for now. For some reason, the only song that keeps on replaying in my head, over and over again, is one that is taking me back to my youth (I know I'm still young, but you understand), and the days in which Chicago Bulls Basketball games and anything Michael Jordan were all the rage. Come on people, sing the Quad City DJs song with me, I know you know it..."C'mon ride the train...woo woo...and ride it!"...I can't hear you...Sing louder!
Monday, March 1, 2010
Abu-Dhabi vs. Dubai
Abu-Dhabi (Father of the Gazelle in Arabic) is by far the richest of the 7 emirates of the UAE, and the one with the largest oil reserves. It is estimated that Abu Dhabi holds 9% of the world’s oil reserves, large enough to secure sufficient investment inflows for at least another 100 years. The capital state’s business culture is definitely more conservative, with strong government involvement focusing on preserving and promoting national Emirati culture. Abu Dhabi government and its main financial institution Mubadala promote joint economical and social development in the region
Dubai, on the other hand, is UAE’s most populous state and the most economically thriving. The city economical freedom and lax regulations allow for greater innovation and growth...too much, too fast at times. Foreigners (Expats) can own properties and businesses in the free-hold areas, providing a strong incentive for foreign investment and entrepreneurial activity. In fact Dubai is far less depended on oil and successfully diversified its economy into the tourism, real estate and services sectors.
Throughout our trip, from our interviews with business people and government officials, the unique identity of these two powerful states and the competition between them became more obvious. Is this inter-state rivalry healthy for UAE’s development? Strategically it could allow the two cities to position themselves and to jointly support regional economic growth: Dubai is a financial center, luxurious and extravagant, while Abu-Dhabi remains more traditional, with a focus on developing culture and fine arts . Another example is Abu-Dhabi’s young airline company Etihad, now competing with Dubai’s Emirates, pushing the industry to further innovate and improve quality standards to compete locally and internationally. However, the long term results of this brotherly rivalry remain to be seen....
Dubai's Burj Kalifa and Abu Dhabi's Yas Island future developments: Guggenheim, Louvre and Opera House
Richness in Culture, Not Currency
The population structure of the United Arab Emirates is highly unique. Eighty-five percent of the population of the country is comprised of expatriates, mostly individuals from South Asia, the Middle East, Europe, and North America. Therefore Emiratis make up a huge minority within their own country. The vast disparity was evident everywhere we went, from the local souks to business headquarters, Emirati people were found far and in between.
With a strong affinity towards Middle Eastern cultures and a firm belief in the true value of cultural preservation, all I could think was that a rich Islamic culture was losing to globalization. Dubai and Abu Dhabi are being positioned as global hubs. Dubai already possesses every department store and hotel chain the world has to offer, and soon Abu Dhabi will be home to the Louvre and the Guggenheim Museums. Globalization on steroids; my greatest concern was how to preserve the region’s culture in such a global landscape.
I felt alone in my thoughts, as everybody was heralding the abnormally quick growth of the region and attributing them to the great prowess of our increasingly global world. After voicing my concern to a number of high-ranking business people we encountered, as well as managers from Mubadala, the central government fund for Abu Dhabi, I was relieved to discover that in fact, the Emiratis shared my anxiety. Cultural maintenance is a growing concern for nationals as they recognize that their country is currently managed and fueled by foreigners.
In response, the Sheiks have installed an Emiratization program. The thought is to encourage both public and private companies to hire local Emirati people who will be trained by their foreign counterparts. Essentially, the UAE (only approximately a thirty-five year old country) is acquiring expatriate skill-sets through knowledge transfers. This ingenious concept saves both time and resources, and ensures that the local Emirati people are trained by the most competent minds the global world has to offer. The program is aimed to build a sustainable Emirati business world fueled by its own people.
I am personally excited by the project, as it appears that the country has discovered a method of accelerating the typically slow process of climbing the corporate ladder. Emirati people hired normally possess university degrees from local or foreign universities (often through subsidy programs as well) and will be hired for positions currently held by expatriates. The expatriates, who are often living in the region for short transitional periods, will thoroughly train the locals to occupy their positions.
Although I recognize certain downfalls with the program, specifically in terms of finding enough willing Emirati people and the sustainability of essentially buying foreign knowledge, I believe that if expatriates ensure to impart their soft skills as well as their hard skills to the Emirati people (specifically in terms of management, innovation, organization), next time I visit the UAE, I will be pleasantly surprised.
who you are determines what you get

The Emirates primary objective is growth through attraction of foreign investment and skills that are lacking locally. In order to enhance this, they open their economy as much as possible hence sacrificing environmental or social regulations and investments. After visiting Abu Dhabi and Dubai for the last ten days I have noticed an apparent breakdown of the social classes. At the top, with the most power and wealth are the Emiratis followed by an upper class of expatriates from Europe, India and other Middle Eastern countries. They are usually educated and hold respectable jobs with high, tax free salaries. And at the bottom a lower working class also constituted of expats but from Bangladesh, Pakistan, Afghanistan, the Philippines, Africa and India. University educated in their home country or not; they are usually construction workers, taxi drivers, fast food employees or in other service industries. Coming from the management faculty of our university; the objective of our trip was obviously oriented towards discovering the business opportunities, and the corporate life style in the Emirates. Very little focus on the underprivileged portion of the population.
I hence dedicated a portion of my free time to talk with some of these people. While the general census was that life is better here than at home with better working opportunities and conditions, many were disillusioned shortly after their arrival here. They work hard long hours for very little income for jobs often undermining their skill level. Although this is slowly changing, the lower class has difficult access to education and healthcare and are not always treated the best of ways. However, as said previously, they wouldn't be here if they had nothing to gain.
The image that was described to us by the managers of the companies we have visited was that Dubai and Abu Dhabi are going to be amongst the most important economic and cultural hubs in the future. I must admit that they had some very good arguments and I wouldn't be surprised if they are proven right in the future. However I just wanted to note the contrast between the opportunities for the upper class and those for the lower class, although both positive, are greatly disproportionate, significantly advantaging the few privileged. This is necessary to a certain extent in order to attract investment, although quite excessive here in my point of view. Given that the UAE is completely new, hence allowing incredible flexibility in its policies, I believe that it can seize this chance to not make the mistakes of others and get things right from the start.
If the United Arab Emirates is to be a leading figure in the future, I would just hope for it to not also be an example of inequality.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Is the UAE's growth sustainable?
Culturaly, I doupt that locals, which represent only 15% of the population, will be able to preserve the traditions and values of the country in the long run. Economically, I believe that the country will not be able to sustain its economic growth if it continues to rely on expats to provide know-how considering these expats need to leave the country when their work visa expires. Can an economy evolve if there is no corporate memory and no internally developed strength? Can a country really thrive on a comparative advantage that it purchases from abroad? I honestly do not think so. People and firms come here to take advantage of the country’s resources and tax regulations (no taxes). The economy heavily relies on expats whose life here is only temporary, which creates short sighted growth strategy. In order to grow in the long run, I feel like the country will have to be more open concerning the residency status of foreigners.
Furthermore, the government of Abu Dhabi seems to be trying to build a comparative advantage in tourism (etihad), medias (two four 24), environment (Mazdar), manufacturing and high tech (according to the Canadian ambassador). I get the impression that by trying to specialize in so many industries, they will simply spread too thin and not be able to build a consistent brand image of the emirate.
Is Dubai Authentic??
Authenticity is a key element in attracting members of the creative class to a city. In a discussion prior to our trip, we had a conversation about whether or not Dubai is authentic - does the place match its branding, does it have something unique to the city? I would argue that although Dubai does have a unique environment that will attract creative people but will not retain them. In fact, the very features that draw people to Dubai are based on the transient attitude that facilitates their departure. Because about 92% of the population is made up by expatriates (non-citizens/locals), the dynamics of the foreign portion of the population within the unique legal framework of the city defines Dubai's culture, not by the Emiratees themselves.
I would define the authentic and attractive draw of Dubai is that it is a port city and a land of opportunity. By nature a port city is a place where people will stop in for business, experience the local entertainment and then leave. Dubai is in a key location in the Middle East, and has the most liberal and capitalistic regulatory system in the whole region. It draws young people (skilled and not) to its parties and entertainment of the quality one could find in Miami or Paris. Thus it compares to other port cities that facilitate trade and entertain, encouraging repeat visits. Dubai also provides a diverse amount of opportunity, despite the recent economic downturn. Whether you are from Bangledesh looking for a better wage or are a highly sought American businessperson, there is opportunity in Dubai for you. They are drawn to the opportunity to make tax free cash in a position or field that perhaps they would be able to have in their home country. However, a large portion of the businesspeople and politicians we spoke to (who are Expatriates, members of the creative class) will only stay in Dubai for a few years. They come, get the experience they were seeking (professionally and personally) and then they are off to the next adventure.
The implications of this authentic culture on Dubai's economic development are substantial. How will Dubai retain creative people in the long run? Although there are policies in place to have Emiratees absorb this expertise, will Dubai actually become an innovation center of the world? Until Dubai solves this challenge, it will continue to be a consumer of innovation in the future despite its high population of the creative class.
Environment: Not a Priority
Prior to coming to the United Arab Emirates, I ran into my “Strategies for Sustainability” professor from last semester. Professor Graham basically said to me “Celine, you better ask them about their reckless behavior towards the environment”. I most definitely made it my mission to understand the importance of the environment within the UAE’s agenda. After having spoken to many CEOs, executives, and government officials, I have come to the conclusion that the environment is definitely not at the forefront of the majority of the business being done in this country. Abu Dhabi and Dubai want to grow. They want to grow fast. The urgency of development and the pressure of immense GDP growth, in the double digits, mean that the country does not regard the environment as a priority or even a consideration. This being said, the country does value not only economic growth but social growth as well. In a country where there are thousands of low wage workers, the UAE is striving to improve the living conditions and the quality of life of not only their Emiratis but of the variety of its expats as well. The UAE is prioritizing in this sense – the country seems to have a “double bottom line”. In a country with only a 37-year history, there is hope with respect to social issues, and once the UAE realizes the complexity of social-environmental issues, I want to be idealistic and believe that there is hope with respect to the environment as well.
The Affect of Culture on the Business Climate
The laws and customs have greatly affected how people do business. After a visit to the New Medical Centre that has ten hospitals in the U.A.E, we visually saw this influence. One of the hospital rooms included a large area for the family to gather and discuss the medical condition of the patient and to decide what to do. In Canada, there are patient confidentiality laws that do not allow doctors to discuss the medical condition of the patient without the proper consent, even with the family. In Canada, family members are often discourages to visit because time in the hospital is a time to rest and get better. Here, if family members don't visit it can be taken as an insult.
Over the last week, I found my opinions constantly changing as I struggled to understand the true essence of the country. I am still mulling over the issues and gathering my thoughts as I decide whether I would be willing and able to live in the U.A.E in the future.
So a recap of the last few days:
After arriving Friday evening and having a quick bite to eat at our beautiful hotel, we got to bed relatively early, being exhausted from a good amount of traveling coupled with the time difference. Saturday we visited the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque.
Wild Weather
That evening, as we gathered by the fountains by the tallest building in the world, we were astonished to see a display of lightening, followed a torrential downpour rain - something unusual in a desert!
As we walked thru the mall we witnessed an unusual sight indeed, water flooding out of some high end clothing boutiques. Clearly the Mall of the Emirates was not designed with this kind of rain in mind.
On the way back to our hotel, the driver had to navigate around large puddles, make that, small lakes of water on the highway, a new experience for him.

